It’s amazing the rabbit holes and worm holes and mole holes that the internet can take you down when you read articles online with their links to all sorts of other interesting stuff.
It was this article that drew my attention this morning with its sub-headline:
“There used to be hundreds of pie and mash shops in London. Now there are barely more than 30. Can social media attention and a push for protected status ensure their survival?”
According to the article “pie and mash” is / was the “original fast food”. Really. But only in London, it seems. And besides, surely the “original fast food” should be an apple or some other fruit easily picked and eaten as you go about your business.
Anyway, reading the article drew my attention to the fact that the original pies would have been “eel pies”, which I remember reading about in various novels set in Victorian and possibly older England. Research told me that as eels became less easily accessible the pies changed to minced beef for some of the time, still served with “liquor”, a sort of parsley sauce made with he water that the eels were cooked in, or with gravy if it’s a meat pie.
(Personally, I get very squeamish about anything to do with eels. His is the fault of an odd boy who lived next door to us in my early teenage years. He often went fishing and on one occasion insisted on showing me a bucket of eels he had caught and how he could revive them if they appeared to be dead by squeezing their gills. Quite enough to put you off eels for life!)
Apparently TikTokers are reviving interest in pie and mash shops. Some of them are said to like investigating old traditions and this is one such. Some of them get very picky about how the mash should be served.
Originally, my various links told me, pies and mash were sold on the street by “pie men”, sold to workers who perhaps didn’t have the chance to return home to lunch. The “pie men” would set up make-shift shelters so that workers could shelter from the rain while eating their pies. Eventually these morphed into proper shops, like this one, which is said to be the oldest surviving pie and mash shop in the London area. They weren’t allowed to label it a pie and mash shop because the council thought it would lower the tone of the neighbourhood. So it goes!
I was reminded of the old nursery rhyme:
Simple Simon met a pieman,
Going to the fair;
Says Simple Simon to the pieman,
Let me taste your ware.
Said the pieman to Simple Simon,
Show me first your penny;
Says Simple Simon to the pieman,
Sir I haven't any.
Here’s some information:
“The verses used today are the first of a longer chapbook history first published in 1764. The character of Simple Simon may have been in circulation much longer, possibly through an Elizabethan chapbook and in a ballad, Simple Simon's Misfortunes and his Wife Margery's Cruelty, from about 1685.”
So what is a chapbook?
Chapbook (c. 1800) of ‘Jack the Giant Killer’.
“A chapbook is a type of small printed booklet that was a popular medium for street literature throughout early modern Europe. Chapbooks were usually produced cheaply, illustrated with crude woodcuts and printed on a single sheet folded into 8, 12, 16, or 24 pages, sometimes bound with a saddle stitch. Printers provided chapbooks on credit to chapmen, who sold them both from door to door and at markets and fairs, then paying for the stock they sold. The tradition of chapbooks emerged during the 16th century as printed books were becoming affordable, with the medium ultimately reaching its height of popularity during the 17th and 18th centuries”.
There you go. Lots of useless, but possible interesting, information.
Then there is Eel Pie Island, a real island in the Thames.
Why is Eel Pie Island famous?
“It was once a bubbling cauldron of British rock ’n’ roll. There was a five-month period in 1963 where you could see the Rolling Stones play there every Wednesday. The Who, Pink Floyd and Screaming Lord Sutch all did gigs at the Eel Pie Island Hotel, a rickety nineteenth-century ballroom that was lost to a fire in 1971. It was a place for counter-culturalists, poets and a pretty sizeable hippie commune because… well, it was the ’60s.”
That’s enough about pie and mash. Now for another food: Spanish ham - jamón - used for discrimination purposes it seems. Here’s something else Onread this morning:
“For all the happiness it brings to people, jamón also has a darker history and it is one that is threatening to re-emerge in our present culture wars. The esteemed place jamón holds in Spanish culture has been used as a tool for social exclusion. The persecution of heretics during the Spanish Inquisition, beginning in 1478 and lasting almost four centuries, particularly targeted Christian converts from Judaism (conversos) or Islam (moriscos), who continued to practise their religion in secret. The consumption of jamón became a symbol of Catholic identity and therefore a huge part of Spanish public life. But it was also a way of excluding those who did not eat pork on grounds of their faith.
As a way of getting around it, morisco and converso families would hang sausages in their houses. Indeed, some people speculate that this is how the practice of hanging sausages and hams in Spanish bars and restaurants started. Others would even cook ham that they had no intention of eating, so that the smell from their houses would waft to neighbours or passersby. The slaughter of pigs became the basis of many popular festivals, a number of which continue today, and the families who did not take part would immediately come under suspicion.”
Think about it when you see all the jamón in shops in Spain! Here’s a link to the whole article.
Life goes on. Stay safe and well, everyone!











