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On our first day in the hotel there was a knock on our door. On opening it I saw one of the hotel staff with a bottle of Cava in an ice bucket and a basket of fruit. “Un obsequio del hotel”. How nice! We had no time to eat or drink as we were due to accompany chess pundits to Baiona and show them the fortifications and the replica caravel, la Pinta, a copy of one of the tiny ships in which Columbus and co discovered America. (La Pinta announced the news first at Baiona so that’s why the replica boat is there.) We had a very pleasant stroll around the port of Baiona and some of the old quarter and then headed back to the hotel. In our room, where the Cava and fruit had been, there was an empty space. Disappeared!! Wrong room apparently. Only the pundits got the gift, not humble helpers.
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One of Monday’s events was a “simultaneous” on Príncipe, the pedestrianised shopping street in Vigo centre. Several well-known strong, local chess players took on more or less all comers, each playing twenty games at a time and winning most of them. Very impressive!
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While this was coming to a close a presentation about chess in schools was going on in the Marco Museum just behind all the chess boards. We skipped that and helped some of our visitors to buy stuff on Príncipe before sitting down to a refresco. Then we all had to hop on a special bus to go to Castrelos Park at the other end of town for a reception with local bigwigs.
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I was given to understand that I was expected to act as interpreter while the head pundit and then the deputy mayor made speeches. So I was ushered to a place to one side of the dais and waited. The head pundit told me he didn’t need me. Hardly surprising as he speaks Spanish. So I fully expected him to repeat his Spanish speech in English for the benefit of his fellow pundits. But no, he just spoke in Spanish and handed over to the deputy mayor who also spoke, at length and without any pauses for interpretation. For a brief moment I feared that I might be expected to remember all the points he had made and summarise in English. However, he merely declared the festivities open and the serving ladies started to offer glasses of wine to everyone. So it’s quite likely that I have appeared in press photos and people will be wondering who is the spare part standing on one side.
Back at the hotel a surprise had been prepared for the chess pundits. Everyone was urged to go up to their rooms for a jacket of some kind and then to meet on the terraza where the surprise awaited: “una queimada” (aka “una quemada” in Castilian Spanish). This is a Galician speciality. You take some “orujo”, the local firewater, and put it in an earthenware bowl with sliced of lemon, coffee beans and sugar. Then you set it alight. When the fire dies down, you drink what is essentially mulled “orujo”. Quite spectacular! I suppose most of the alcohol is burnt off but it still tastes quite potent.
The first time I saw this fire ceremony it was accompanied by people dressed as “meigas” (Galician witches), wizards and assorted dancers, as well as a major wizard intoning some kind of mumbo jumbo.
Somebody commented this time that you can’t visit Galicia without trying “una queimada” – “No se puede visitar Galicia sin probar una queimada”. There you go!
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