To the Islands ... in the rain!

On Thursday, before the weather broke – later here than in other parts of Spain where they have had storms and torrential rain – we took a last boat trip to the Islas Cíes for this year before they close the service down until next Easter. Our son and his girlfriend were visiting and we wanted to show them the islands. So, despite a forecast that was less than good for Thursday, we set off for the 10.30 boat, armed with waterproofs, just in case.

Thursday had dawned fine and clear but by the time we boarded and set off across the water the clouds were blowing over from Pontevedra. Our plan was to explore a bit of the island, have some lunch, explore some more and head for home.

So, on arrival, after a warming cup of coffee – it’s cold work sitting on the top deck in the wind – we trekked off past the lagoon, marvelling at the Atlantic waves pounding in at the causeway, went around behind the campsite and up the hill.

Our ultimate goal was the big lighthouse, the Faro de Cíes, at the top of the hill but we stopped every so often to admire the view, especially downwards.

We made it to the top in the end, after many a twist and turn in the path. Then the only thing to do was go back down, seeing the same sights from a different angle and looking down on another lighthouse far below, the Faro da Porta.


We were lucky with the weather, getting more than our share of sunshine on our way up the hill. We even managed to see a lizard! By the time we reached the self-service restaurant on the campsite, however, it was starting to drizzle. We did not mind though; our objective now was food.

As we ate ensalada mixta and empanada, washed down with a bottle of vino joven, we watched the rain grow heavier and spent a good while in the shelter of the restaurant, watching seagulls run across the awning and take off. It was just as well that it was late in the season. Had there been the same number of visitors as in August we would have been hard pressed to find shelter. As it was, we were a fairly select hardy bunch on the islands in the rain and there was plenty of room.

Eventually the rain eased off enough for us to walk along the path towards the high point of the island, Alto do Príncipe. We never got there, however. We were booked onto the 5.30 boat for our return journey and we did not plan to miss it. So once more we headed down the hill, had a quick stroll on the beach, even a paddle, and caught the boat home.

This morning Saturday, visitors departed as of yesterday, I woke to the sound of rain. The TV weatherman had been right. And the temperatures were lower than we have grown used to of late. For the first time in a long time I had shoes and socks on. On my way back from the bread shop I met a neighbour in the lift who commented that we seemed to have gone almost overnight from summer to winter.

It felt like that then but later on the day as the rain disappeared and the cloud cover thinned the temperatures crept back up, showing 17.5° or 18.5° outside chemists’ shops. By early evening the sky was blue again. So, not quite winter yet then! The day is definitely approaching, however, when I must put my sandals away and keep raincoats and umbrellas by the door instead of sun glasses and sunhats.